Cream openwork collar
From Charles Newton 2013.10.31: 'The costume is difficult. It does not seem to be a uniform in the conventional sense, there are no indicators of military or naval rank. After the Tanzimat of the 1830s, military costume was very Europeanised in any case – the most Ottoman thing worn was the fez. It is rather a showy outfit that might have been worn by a dandy, or a servant, (the equivalent of livery), or even a wedding outfit. I would say Ottoman, late 19th century - early 20th century in date. The embroidery on the mintan (coat with sleeves), and on the yelek (waistcoat) is high quality, and the gömlek (shirt), with what I presume is the separate lace collar, is rather fine. The breeches, (zipka or perhaps salvar) look in very good condition – can hardly have been worn. I am not an expert on costume, and I might have not used the correct Ottoman terms in this particular case. I expect that Wingfield Digby [George Wingfield Digby, F.R.S.A., who was Keeper of Textiles at the V&A in the 1940s] passed it on to the Horniman as he would have regarded it as folk costume – therefore ethnography, and not part of their remit.'